Walkera V120D02 Flybarless heli from RF Novus 125 CP.
V1-1:
-Removed flybar from RF Novus 125CP
-Added cyclic gyros to simulate flybarless controller.
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If the flybarless component is too strong (stops to sharp, too much of the "on Rails" or "locked-On" feel), and you'd like a somewhat more "looser" feeling heli, you'll need to turn down the following parameters. First open up the model "Editor", and then under "Electronics" look for the following headings
1. Aileron Cyclic Gyro
2. Elevator Cyclic Gyro
Under these two headings you'll have to adjust the following two parameters....
a. Rate Gain - dampens the wind, and abrupt changes
b. Head Holding Gain - Locks the heli's rotor disc in an orientation.
Lower them one to two clicks at time...if at 47...lower to 46...fly a bit.....lower again..fly a bit....etc.... You want your brain, eyeballs, thumbs, and muscles to get use to each change. If you go too high on either of these parameters, the rotor disc will wobble.
Both Aileron, and Elevator Cyclic gyros have these parameters. Keep the values between the sets the same for now as you lower or raise them.
It's amazing how accurate Real Flight got these algorithms. On the real thing, the very same changes result in similar if not exact flight behaviors.
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Roll, Pitch, and or Yaw to Slow or too Fast?
The two parameters that deal with this in an FBL unit and on tail gyros that have these options are the...
1. Rotational Acceleration - using a gyro on a channel turns your TX stick into something very similar in action to the gas pedal on your car. This parameter determines how fast you reach the set Rotational Rate speed (another parameter).
2. Rotational Rate (Speed) - This sets the limit on how fast the model rotates about the Roll, Pitch, or Yaw axis. Each gyro that is assigned to an axis will have this parameter. If at full stick the model rolls pitches or yaws to slowly - increase this value. If it rolls, pitches or yaws to fast at full stick decrease this value.
When I adjust these on my heli, I tend to do it with Linear Expo, and 100% dual rates - these two options can muddy the adjustments made to the FBL/gyro's rotational acceleration, and rotational rate (speed).
I add the expo and dual rates back in when I'm done.
*Some FBL units can actually determine the Rotational Accelerations from a heli's physical setup.
You can find more about the gyro settings in the link below. In setting up the gyros I used my experience from setting up a real one, and you'll find that I've correlated the parameters with Skookum's SK-720...
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2746586&postcount=38
Note: That a forthcoming update to Skookum's SK-720 will support inverted self-leveling. So disregard my previous notes in the link above.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=296311
Note: You'll find the latest versions of the RF models I've added gyros to - here in the Knife Edge swap pages....
Silverexpress 2011
V1-1:
-Removed flybar from RF Novus 125CP
-Added cyclic gyros to simulate flybarless controller.
-------------------------------------------------------------
If the flybarless component is too strong (stops to sharp, too much of the "on Rails" or "locked-On" feel), and you'd like a somewhat more "looser" feeling heli, you'll need to turn down the following parameters. First open up the model "Editor", and then under "Electronics" look for the following headings
1. Aileron Cyclic Gyro
2. Elevator Cyclic Gyro
Under these two headings you'll have to adjust the following two parameters....
a. Rate Gain - dampens the wind, and abrupt changes
b. Head Holding Gain - Locks the heli's rotor disc in an orientation.
Lower them one to two clicks at time...if at 47...lower to 46...fly a bit.....lower again..fly a bit....etc.... You want your brain, eyeballs, thumbs, and muscles to get use to each change. If you go too high on either of these parameters, the rotor disc will wobble.
Both Aileron, and Elevator Cyclic gyros have these parameters. Keep the values between the sets the same for now as you lower or raise them.
It's amazing how accurate Real Flight got these algorithms. On the real thing, the very same changes result in similar if not exact flight behaviors.
--------------------------
Roll, Pitch, and or Yaw to Slow or too Fast?
The two parameters that deal with this in an FBL unit and on tail gyros that have these options are the...
1. Rotational Acceleration - using a gyro on a channel turns your TX stick into something very similar in action to the gas pedal on your car. This parameter determines how fast you reach the set Rotational Rate speed (another parameter).
2. Rotational Rate (Speed) - This sets the limit on how fast the model rotates about the Roll, Pitch, or Yaw axis. Each gyro that is assigned to an axis will have this parameter. If at full stick the model rolls pitches or yaws to slowly - increase this value. If it rolls, pitches or yaws to fast at full stick decrease this value.
When I adjust these on my heli, I tend to do it with Linear Expo, and 100% dual rates - these two options can muddy the adjustments made to the FBL/gyro's rotational acceleration, and rotational rate (speed).
I add the expo and dual rates back in when I'm done.
*Some FBL units can actually determine the Rotational Accelerations from a heli's physical setup.
You can find more about the gyro settings in the link below. In setting up the gyros I used my experience from setting up a real one, and you'll find that I've correlated the parameters with Skookum's SK-720...
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=2746586&postcount=38
Note: That a forthcoming update to Skookum's SK-720 will support inverted self-leveling. So disregard my previous notes in the link above.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=296311
Note: You'll find the latest versions of the RF models I've added gyros to - here in the Knife Edge swap pages....
Silverexpress 2011
