Creating a new photofield airport from scratch in G4.5

pgoelz

Member
In response to my own request, and after a lot of fruitless web and forum searches and a LOT of trial and error, I have prepared a short guide to creating a custom airport from a photofield. I'm open to comments and criticism. I have now created two airports from panoramic images. Much of my initial confusion and frustration was the result of very poor documentation. To add to the confusion, the editor has some bugs that made it difficult to determine if the program was mis-behaving or if I mis-understood the process.

Hopefully, this will help the next guy get started a bit faster.

To create a photofield airport from scratch, you need a panoramic image covering 360 degrees horizontally and 180 degrees vertically. The horizon (visible or not) must be in the exact vertical center of the panorama. If it is not, it will cause distance errors when depth buffer objects are overlaid on their photographic equivalents. This is easier said than done ;)

1. Take a panoramic set of photos of the desired flying space. Ideally, these will cover the entire 360 degree space, from straight down to straight up. I use a tripod with separate tilt and pan locks and ensure it is perfectly level and at eye level. This puts the horizon dead ahead in the first set of photos panned around a full 360 degrees. I start and end with the view directly behind the pilot position so the seam is not in the normal field of view (although the autostitch program I am using chooses the joining point for me). You get less distortion by using a longer focal length lens but this will also increase the required number of photos.

2. Stitch the photos together with the horizon dead center across the image. For the set of panoramic photos covering the view straight ahead to the horizon, this is not too hard. I have used the stitching program that came with my Canon S5-IS and for a single row panorama it does a wonderful and totally automatic job. For the views up and down, the stitching program does not work well (it produces a curved final image) so I have started using Panorama Plus from Serif, which does a great job (usually) on multiple rows. There seems to be a fairly large amount of information on the forum and the web relating to creating a panoramic image and I have not explored all the techniques and software available.

Note that you can get away with a single panoramic strip made from photos covering the view straight forward to the horizon if you are willing to sacrifice realistic sky and ground. Simply paste the panoramic strip in an image that is half as tall as the strip is wide and import this final image. You can leave the areas representing sky and ground blank, or you can add fake (or cloned) sky and ground in your photo editor.

3. After stitching, the top of the final image represents the sky directly overhead and the bottom of the image represents the ground under your feet. If you are stitching manually, trim the left and right sides at a convenient "landmark" so the image will be continuous when wrapped around a 360 degree space.

4. If you are working with full resolution input images, the resulting final image will be VERY large. I have a 64 bit OS and Photoshop can handle my final image but some machines may choke. It might be necessary to downsize the input images to something more reasonable before stitching.

5. The end result (just before importing into Realflight) must be a 2:1 aspect ratio…. ie., it will be twice as long as it is tall. To ensure this ratio, I trim the left and right edges so they will match up, divide the width in pixels by 2, and then trim the top and bottom of the stitched image equally (keeps the horizon centered) so the final height is half the width. I have used final images up to 10,000 pixels wide by 5,000 pixels tall without issue (although they take a while to import). That said, I have had some strange reactions from the import function and the editor that are not related to file size.

6. Within Realflight, import the image as a raw photofield.

7. The photofield will now be available to the airport editor. It will need to be rotated so north in the simulator is north in the image. This is extremely poorly documented in G4.5. I resorted to placing the pilot spawn and then an airplane spawn at a known compass point in the layout screen, rotating the pilot spawn preview so the airplane was straight ahead, and then rotating the photofield until it was oriented correctly. Not sure if there is a better way or not. I double check by placing the wind sock, setting some wind from a known direction, and observing the wind sock.

Paul
 
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Update.

I did my first photofield semi-manually and it was a chore. After reading about the various stitching programs out there, I settled on PanoramaPlus 3 from Serif. It is totally automatic (although there are a couple adjustments if you need them). The best part is that you can load up all your photos in any order (including multiple rows) and it figures it all out totally hands off and assembles them into a panorama. It will even sort out photos from more than one panorama into separate panoramas. I haven't tried it but it is even supposed to be able to make a panorama from a video.

You cannot specify the splice point in a 360 degree panorama but in my experience, the match is so good that it really doesn't matter if it is in the active part of an airport as long as nothing (people, clouds, shadows) changed from one photo to the other. It is only important if you need to clone part of the panorama (like the ground)..... in that case, you have to be careful the two cloned edges match up fairly well.

It is not freeware but at $29, it is well worth it.

Paul
 
Errata:

The following is a short list of miscellaneous items that I had to learn by trial and error or reading between the lines in the "help". I will add to this list as I hack around and discover more.

If any of this is in error, please advise.

1. The editor assumes that the horizon (visible or not) is level and in the exact vertical center of the panorama. If it is not, this will cause errors in distance when depth buffer objects are placed over their corresponding photofield images.

2. You cannot change the texture or slope of the ground in a photofield airport. If your photofield has any slope to the ground, it will cause objects placed on the photofield "ground" to be closer or farther away than expected. You can add flat depth buffer objects like the "shallow 30ft rectangle" and tilt them to raise the "ground" but these objects all have thickness so this also creates an edge that your aircraft can hit. The only way to cause depth buffer objects to coincide with objects in the photofield AND be at the correct distances from the pilot is to create a photofield of a flat terrain, with the horizon (visible or not) in the exact center of the photofield.

3. Depth buffer objects (primitive shapes) can be "forced to render to the depth buffer". This effectively hides them so they can be crashed into in the simulation but not seen. They can be hidden individually (tedious) or you can select ALL objects at once by clicking the "objects" heading in the folder view and selecting "force children to render to depth buffer". This will hide any object that can be hidden. Note that some more complex objects cannot be hidden and will therefore be visible superimposed on your photofield.

4. In the airport editor initial default view, north is up and west is left. Until you use the VIEW > MODE > PIVOT CAMERA function. Once you have rotated the view, the only way I have found to re-establish north in the main view is to place the windsock and program wind from a fixed direction and observe the wind sock. There REALLY needs to be a visible grid in the editor.

5. The center of the photofield is the "zero" of the "absolute position" readout for each object. Create the photographic panorama centered around the intended pilot spawn position and place the pilot spawn at 0,0,0 absolute position.

6. If your photofield is outdoors and under a clear blue sky, it can get a little disorienting if the ground is not in view. Adding clouds can give some continuity to the sky when you cannot see the ground. Note, however, that the clouds will be superimposed over any photofield objects that project significantly above the horizon. If these objects have corresponding hidden depth buffer objects, they will block the clouds in that area.
 
Pretty good so far.

A few screen shots to illustrate what you are saying would help the novices.

Keep it up!
 
Well, that's the thing..... do I go all out and develop an instruction manual or do I give the leg up I was unable to find to people who can figure the little things out themselves. I'm inclined to not develop a manual because I'd like to hope that Knife Edge will eventually do it themselves. I'll see about gathering some screen shots though.

Aside from giving a leg up, part of my intent was to also show Knife Edge what was MISSING from the documentation by filling in the gaps myself. Like many manuals written by technical people, the "big picture" is totally missing. If you know in detail what you want to do and more to the point, what to call it, the documentation will show you how to execute the function. But it is nearly useless when it comes to describing the process of starting from scratch and making a photofield airport you can fly around and crash in.

It is a real shame too, because documentation (and a couple quirks and bugs) aside, the airport editor is actually fairly easy to use IF you already know what to do with it. Add the ability to place rectangular depth buffer objects of zero thickness and programmable height and tilt and it would be pretty complete.

Paul
 
pgoelz said:
the airport editor is actually fairly easy to use IF you already know what to do with it. Add the ability to place rectangular depth buffer objects of zero thickness and programmable height and tilt and it would be pretty complete.

Paul

Thats true .......IF and sometimes that a big IF! :mad:
the editor actually keeps things in place and or exports properly!!!!
 
Funny.... I have not yet had the editor move anything or fail to properly export. In fact in my experience it works quite well once you figure out how to use it.

Paul
 
Thanks for the tutorial. I have tried to make pano's before and failed. Your insight is quite useful. :)
 
The two things that I have found difficult when making panos are the sky and the ground. They generally have either no detail (sky) or no unique detail (ground), and the pano stitching software fails to find stitch points. I have had to clone parts of each of the panos I have completed for that reason.

One thing that would make it a LOT easier in the editor are COORDINATES. You are totally blind when it comes to the orientation of your panorama, both vertically and horizontally. If there was a grid showing the compass points and the horizon it would make it a lot easier to get things lined up.

Paul
 
Humm
How much would it cost for you to come to El Paso and create our RC field in G4.5?
would it be migratable to G5.0?
This is what I really want to do, but it must be daunting, just from the sound of it.
 
Oldsamer said:
Humm
How much would it cost for you to come to El Paso and create our RC field in G4.5?
would it be migratable to G5.0?
This is what I really want to do, but it must be daunting, just from the sound of it.
Interesting request, but not really necessary. Creating a photofield airport is not THAT bad. If your field is fairly flat, all you have to do is create the panorama. The rest is pretty simple.

The heli practice field I did was made from about 30 photos. I put the camera on a tripod and panned and tilted it so the each photo overlappe dthe previous one. When I was done, the panorama stitching program did the rest. It worked OK except for the upper part of the sky and the ground under me because those areas didn't have any unique features in common. I cloned them in Photoshop.

Give it a try.... it might take a couple tries, but it is doable.

I don't have G5 yet. If you do, just open the heli practice field in G5 and see if it works (it should).

Paul
 
Thanks Paul for starting this thread and contributing further ideas about generating the images and the collision programing necessary to render photofields realistically. This serves a real need.

PTGui is highly regarded amoung panorama enthusiasts and is my first choice for the best 360 degree stitching software. HUgin is also very capeable (and is free and open source) but is much more difficult to learn to use IMO... Neither software tends to choke stitching ground/grass textures, but you may have to position featureless blue sky images by hand; PTGui makes this very easy to accomplish. Or, as Paul notes, these problem areas may simply be cloned.

Oldsamer, if you really wish someone else shoot/stitch the images of your field, you can probably find someone local and experienced in panoramas who might do this free or for a very moderate fee... Posting a request for this type of photographer near El Paso on panorama user forums such as PanoGuide or even Craig's List will likely turn up someone local with such an interest...

Or learn the process yourself, it is fun and if you can build and fly an RC plane you likely can learn to do this also. The proper stitching software is very important as is some type of pano head for your tripod. Read the sources you were pointed to in the panorama link in the other KE thread...

Good luck with this...

Charlie
 
Bucko said:
The proper stitching software is very important as is some type of pano head for your tripod. Read the sources you were pointed to in the panorama link in the other KE thread...

Good luck with this...

Charlie
FWIW, that is what I like about Panorama Plus..... you don't need ANY head at all as long as your individual photos overlap. In fact, it can extract and stitch frames from video too.... just pan around and make sure you cover the whole 360 degree sphere. The only hard part is making sure that you have 100% coverage. In fact, it is smart enough that you can present it with randome shots from more than one panorama series and it will figure out what goes with what and make individual panoramas.

Paul
 
Well, in fact, you don't need any pano head for any of the other pano stitchers either, it just makes your task easier and ultimately more precise. Suit yourself...

Likewise, I'm glad you have found a software stitching product in Panorama Plus that works well for your needs and tastes. AutoStitch is free and works quite well in most instances too. I merely was trying to point out that many pano enthusiasts prefer the professional results and enhanced capabilities that PTGui facilitates.

Other users prefer AutoPanoPro which I also use but I find PTGui to be superb for the type of 360 degree images with featureless blue skies we often encounter at flying sites. Your mileage may vary.
 
Bucko said:
Other users prefer AutoPanoPro which I also use but I find PTGui to be superb for the type of 360 degree images with featureless blue skies we often encounter at flying sites. Your mileage may vary.
Well, I didn't give PTGui an extensive trial when I was evaluating stitching programs. Sounds like I'll have to revisit it. How DOES it handle featureless skies? Do you manually set stitch points and aspect ratio corrections?

Paul
 
Briefly, after other feature-rich images have been optimized and correctly located by PTGui, the user can manually drag the orphan images to their approximate locations. Since these by definition have few distinctive characteristics this generally is good enough, you likely will notice no issues.

However if you have followed a rigorous process in your initial image capture procedure, you frequently will know the approximate yaw, pitch, and roll values of all your component images. Thus with a typical DSLR 18-55mm kit lens you may require 12 images around at the horizon level (zero pitch, yaw interval of 30 degrees, roll=zero); plus additional 12-image rows pitched +45 degrees and -45 degrees, plus zenith and nadir shots.

Y,P,& R values for any (or all) of these 38 component images are quickly and easily entered in PTGui's image parameter tab... These nominal values will locate any (or all) image with reasonable accuracy. With sufficient component image detail (i.e. features) PTGui can generally stitch all component images fully automatically. When featureless images present a problem these can then be placed manually by one of the above processes.

From what I can see Panorama Plus, like Autostitch, affords no tweaking should a panorama stitch prove problematic, these programs either work or they don't (I used the free Panorama Plus SE version perhaps the paid version has other features). PTGui and AutoPanoPro provide a great deal more flexibility whenever problems are encountered with a stitch.
 
Oh man, you're smokin my head.
I'm still learning to land my nexStar EP. Now I gotta learn about pano
heads and stitching?

Actually, My Kodak (don't laugh) Z1285 has a panorama mode that stitches 3 pictures together. 35mm produces (34 degree of azimuth?) x 3 pictures = a quadrant, I hope. A low row (dirt)), horizontal row (mountain horizon), and a high row (deep blue sky) per quadrant = 12 pictures I can provide, I think. I've duck taped an incline-O-meter and engineers compass to the Z1285 mounted on a tripod duck taped to my workmate at our best pilot station. Is this a pano head?

Re: how much for you to come to El Paso.
12 o'clockhigh (this fourm) is walking me through the process and willl convert my quadants into a custom field addon to G4.5 / 5.0?

Didn't know what I was getting, spending this SocialSecuity money.
mike (oldSamer)
 
Kodak pano

Oldsamer said...

"I've duck taped an incline-O-meter and engineers compass to the Z1285 mounted on a tripod duck taped to my workmate at our best pilot station. Is this a pano head?" YES. (Your rig will not take into account the no parallax point (nodal point) but your results should be good enough.)

Your Kodak Z1285 specs show a focal length equivalent of 35-175mm, so at the 35mm setting you should be able to shoot a row of images at intervals of 45 degrees, likely this is marked on your tripod or your taped on compass points. I'm assuming your camera is mounted in landscape orientation, right? Shoot the row in a clockwise rotation.

Think first only about the row of images at the horizon, 8 images shot at a 45 degree interval. Any of the software stitcher programs mentioned earlier in this thread should be able to easily stitch these images. (Your Kodak stitcher is not designed to do what we need to do with these images.)

Once you can stitch the full 360 degree row you can start to think about adding additional rows to your work flow, probably at pitch intervals of about (+&-) 30 degrees, then (+&-) 60 degrees.

My advise would be to set up your rig somewhere easy to shoot and do some practice runs until you understand the full procedure before trying this at your field. It's not really difficult to photograph the component image sets once you understand the process.

Let us know how this works for you... Others are likely interested in this procedure as well...
 
Just got back from a half day of flying and shooting.

Learned a LOT.
Broke a prop taxing into some rocks, but I already know about that. Is why I order them 6-a-week.

I have a lenstatic compass co-mounted with the camera and was shooting every 30 degrees! After the 3rd shot the Kodak would try to stitch them together resulting in a panorama of 90 degrees (I'd hoped). Only one 90 degree pan looks ok. I sure learned what a BAD stitching looks like!!!

Bucko says; shoot a row of images at intervals of 45 degrees.
Got it, 30 degrees wouldn't stitch well.

Bucko says; Your Kodak stitcher is not designed to do what we need to do with these images.
Oh well, but it is teaching me about shooting panoramas. In pan mode it saves a strip from the edge of the previous shot and displays it on the opposite edge, so I just superimpose the next shots edge on that.

Bucko says; set up your rig somewhere easy to shoot and do some practice runs until you understand the full procedure before trying this at your field.
That is a good idea. Plus I can quickly download and see what I shot.

A problem I'm running into is bright sunlight washes out the cameras display screen. I'm gonna invent some kind of "head bag" that my face and the cameras display can get into. I better warn the neighbors what I'm doing. Is anything available in the camera market to fix this?
 
Don't get too caught up on how many degrees to shift or pan.
You will need to decide what works best while at the field based on how zoomed-in or zoomed-out you are.
What is important to remember is to have at least 20-30 percent overlap between adjacent pics and rows.
That will give the stitch software enough info to go on.

I haven't seen an example posted on this thread yet, so I will share a sample of a recent indoor photofield I worked on.

I always take the middle row first, to me that is the most important row, the one that must be the sharpest focus and best exposure.
Then I shoot an upper and lower row without changing my exposure settings.
The fixed focus settings are reset for each row.
Depending on your zoom level, you may need more rows than the ones indicated here.

You may find another method that works for you, this is the one that works for me best.

Good Luck,
Frank...
 

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