interlink DX controller throttle gimbal issue?

Y

yamaharacer

New member
hey all, my realflight is 9 I bought in 2022 and since updated to 9.5. I'm starting to have an issue with the DX controller it came with. and I've barely used it. it mostly sits on my desk. I've been using it more and more recently but I've noticed that my throttle stick(mode 2) will not stay down to zero. I have to hold it down or it's at 8 to 11% throttle up during the calibration and the max it will do is 97%. calibrating the controller doesn't change anything. also the stick on it's lowest I can make it go is 3 notches up. the elevator throw goes all the way down to the 2nd notch. It feels like there's something stuck or broken on the throttle side. are these things known for this issue and is there something I can repair? i have taken it apart to look and can't find anything obvious. I know it wasn't like this new.

it's annoying to have to hold it down to keep the plane from zooming off the runway.
 
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Try it in different USB ports.
Try a USB hub. (cheap unpowered one will work).
Try calibrating the DX in Windows joy.cpl program.
 
I wonder if the mode switch on the back of your InterLink DX is no longer firmly in the "MODE 2/4" position. Try this:
  1. Center both sticks.
  2. Turn the DX around and open the clear mode switch cover in the center.
  3. If necessary, temporarily remove the plastic piece with the horizontal ridge that helps hold the switch in place.
  4. Move the switch to the center position. This takes a little bit of force.
  5. Move the switch farther, all the way to the right "MODE 1/3" position.
  6. Move the switch all the way back to the leftmost "MODE 2/4" position".
  7. Replace the plastic piece from step 3 if applicable, and close the clear cover.
Did that help?
 
Ryan Douglas said:
I wonder if the mode switch on the back of your InterLink DX is no longer firmly in the "MODE 2/4" position. Try this:
  1. Center both sticks.
  2. Turn the DX around and open the clear mode switch cover in the center.
  3. If necessary, temporarily remove the plastic piece with the horizontal ridge that helps hold the switch in place.
  4. Move the switch to the center position. This takes a little bit of force.
  5. Move the switch farther, all the way to the right "MODE 1/3" position.
  6. Move the switch all the way back to the leftmost "MODE 2/4" position".
  7. Replace the plastic piece from step 3 if applicable, and close the clear cover.
Did that help?
Click to expand...
no. it feels like a spring is pulling on it inside. it just bounces back to about 10% in the calibration mode. it just wont stay on 0 like it did new.
I also backed off all the tension screws just to see. they actually don't do anything. they don't tighten the movement or get loose. nothing changes. makes me think there's something wrong with the entire gimbal. but it's so complicated I don't want to try to take it apart.

is there any kind of screw that acts as a stop?

here's a video of it,

 
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The fact that the throttle stick bounces back a little bit from the point where you're holding it at edge of its range is somewhat common on Spektrum radios. If I really press down on the throttle stick, I can get it to move about as much as yours. However, my "normal resting place" for the throttle is a little farther down than yours, nearly halfway between the two long white lines.

When you calibrate the sticks, you want to make sure you're not pushing the stick hard at the end of the range. Usually you can limit that spring effect through careful calibration.

There are throttle range motion blocks in the radio. If you watch how far the throttle stick moves up and down and compare that to how far the elevator stick moves up and down, you'll see that the elevator stick can move farther. Unfortunately, that's not adjustable on InterLink DX like is is on other Spektrum radios.

Have you tried the suggestion about double-checking the position of the mode switch on the back? That a mechanical adjustment that would affect the throttle stick range of motion. If you were to slide it to Mode 1, the throttle stick range blocks would be retracted on the left stick and applied to the right stick. That's the connection between the blocks and that switch.

Worst case, if you're in the US, send it back to Horizon Hobby repair in Champaign, IL and let them look at it. Spektrum hardware support is excellent.
 
I recently disassembled an interlink DX contoroller that could no longer be used for flight adjustment due to poor neutral accuracy.
The arm that neutralizes the gimbal was worn and worn out. Futaba radio controllers are lubricated with silicon grease to prevent wear, but this controller is not. After repairing and reassembling the controller, I applied silicon grease to the part that slides when switching modes. The switching became lighter and the throttle bounce was improved.
Compared to Futaba's Elite contoroller, the interlink DX contoroller is a failure.
The Elite contoroller that comes with the RF G4 has better neutral accuracy. Neutral is 0.
There is no bounce.
 

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mike326 said:
I recently disassembled an interlink DX contoroller that could no longer be used for flight adjustment due to poor neutral accuracy.
The arm that neutralizes the gimbal was worn and worn out. Futaba radio controllers are lubricated with silicon grease to prevent wear, but this controller is not. After repairing and reassembling the controller, I applied silicon grease to the part that slides when switching modes. The switching became lighter and the throttle bounce was improved.
Compared to Futaba's Elite contoroller, the interlink DX contoroller is a failure.
The Elite contoroller that comes with the RF G4 has better neutral accuracy. Neutral is 0.
There is no bounce.
Click to expand...
my 15 year old Interlink Elite is still running strong with no problems. I still use it today. I did have to replace the cord about 10 years ago but it wasn't a big deal.
 
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