TX16s with USB connection as controller

I just ran through the testing again, this time not setting anything for each of the 5-8 channels, progressively.
Of course if you don't link a control to a channel, the RF nags to make sure you really want to end calibrating after doing less than 8. This is generally fine. BUT:

Channel 6 MUST have a centering control linked to it! Not configuring CH 6 will result in inability to map ch1-4 to the correct controls in the main configuration screen, even if calibration appears to have worked!

In this testing, CH 7 was just fine not being used. But as hsamuels says, if you are going to assign something to it, it must be something with a center position.
 
hi, it seems as if my computer no longer recognizez my tx16s although it has worked before. no matter what i try it wont show up in the windows calibration or realflight calibration. i plug it in and set it to usb joystick but it doesnt show up. anyone know why?
 
hi, it seems as if my computer no longer recognizez my tx16s although it has worked before. no matter what i try it wont show up in the windows calibration or realflight calibration. i plug it in and set it to usb joystick but it doesnt show up. anyone know why?

Likely Windows killed it. This was an issue a while ago, due to an update Windows did to some of their drivers. The interim fix was to roll back the Windows driver to an older version. The better way is to update OpenTX to the most current.

The other quick thing to try - use a different USB cable and/or port on your computer. Cables do go bad....a prime indication is if you also can't go into bootloader mode to access the SD card on the radio.
 
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The other quick thing to try - use a different USB cable and/or port on your computer. Cables do go bad....a prime indication is if you also can't go into bootloader mode to access the SD card on the radio.
Also, sometimes a usb connection is marginal; you might try using what is called a powered usb port. The powered usb port plugs into your usb computer port, but has its own wall-wart power supply. Then you plug your controller into that (no promises, just something to try).

marcus
 
Likely Windows killed it. This was an issue a while ago, due to an update Windows did to some of their drivers. The interim fix was to roll back the Windows driver to an older version. The better way is to update OpenTX to the most current.

The other quick thing to try - use a different USB cable and/or port on your computer. Cables do go bad....a prime indication is if you also can't go into bootloader mode to access the SD card on the radio.
no it worked on the same night and then i disconeccted it and then like 30 min later i connected it again and it didnt work
i didnt change anything. its not too much of an issue as i have the old old interlink for RF that works its just the gimbals on the tx16 are heaps better
 
no it worked on the same night and then i disconeccted it and then like 30 min later i connected it again and it didnt work
i didnt change anything. its not too much of an issue as i have the old old interlink for RF that works its just the gimbals on the tx16 are heaps better
It happens, although rarely; it does happen. Components just give out, and peripherals quit working; often as the result of ESD... and other reasons too. (it sucks, sorry) Sometimes older peripherals get zapped when hot-plugged... another type of ESD damage. Some ESD damage is electrostatic, some hot-plug discharge, some both. Essentially the components blow due to a high discharge or static spark (happens more often in dry winter climates, over carpets, depending what you're wearing, including the kind of shoes you have on.
Ports give out too. I'm just talking about one aspect of electronic hardware giving out.

marcus
 
It happens, although rarely; it does happen. Components just give out, and peripherals quit working; often as the result of ESD... and other reasons too. (it sucks, sorry) Sometimes older peripherals get zapped when hot-plugged... another type of ESD damage. Some ESD damage is electrostatic, some hot-plug discharge, some both. Essentially the components blow due to a high discharge or static spark (happens more often in dry winter climates, over carpets, depending what you're wearing, including the kind of shoes you have on.
Ports give out too. I'm just talking about one aspect of electronic hardware giving out.

marcus
nah just something weird. got it to work after an hour of searching settings xD. had to update the driver. all is good. thanks everyone anyway.
 
OK, try this:
Set up a simple model on your radio. For now, no inputs, just use the "native" sources (sticks, sliders, etc.) in the mixer. All weights 100%. Nothing else. Do like mine: Ch1= A, 2=E, 3=T, 4=R, 5=slider or knob, 6=slider or knob, 7=slider or knob, 8=slider or knob, 9=2 pos switch, 10=2 pos switch, 11= 2 pos switch (if you run out of 2 pos, you can use a 3 for any of them).

With the radio turned on, and the USB plugged in, go in to Windows, Control Panel, Device Manager and find the HID-compliant game controller under "Human Interface Devices". Make sure it is the right one (unplug all other game controllers you have). Right click, and Uninstall Device.

Unplug the radio, then plug it back. Select "USB Joystick (HID)" on the radio screen pop-up. The driver will automatically reinstall. Go to Windows, Control Panel, Devices and Printers and find your controller. Right click, and choose "Game Controller Settings".

Go in to Calibration.
On mine, the switch set for CH 10 worked to advance the calibration screens.
Following the above order of controls, they controlled in this sequence: X, Y, Z, X Rotation, Y Rotation, Z Rotation, Slider 2, Slider 1, Button 1, Button 2 and Button 3. Save when finished.

Delete any saved radio profiles in My Documents.

Go into RF to create and calibrate your controller. I'll skip that detail, as you seem to be familiar with "how to".

Crossed fingers that this sorts it out for you!

IF it is now all behaving correctly, I'll leave it to you to figure out how many active switches on additional channels you want - looks like Windows has the potential for a lot, that then can be assigned to functions in RF.

Whew, that should get you pointed in the right direction. But then will come the challenges of what happens when what you configured gets passed to the RF "software radio" (or not), and what may or may not control what, beyond the basic flight controls, in some of the RF models.
I was wondering how to set up a model in the TX16S for use on RF 9.5 and this may have answered it. However by changing things in device manager will this inadvertently affect it respond In AccuRC 2? My reason for asking is because my TX16S is my real life controller and I want it to help me develop my muscle memory for flying my actual planes and helicopters.
 
The above was to verify whether the connection was working in Windows or not, and to calibrate things. If the setup you use for AccuRC has a different order (R,E,T,A or other) use that. But in Real Flight, you'll have to configure a custom controller to remap the channels to what Real Flight expects. Pretty straight forward once you go in to do it. Or use one model setup in the Transmitter for AccuRC, and another for Real Flight.
 
To clarify previous post - this is what I see on the QX7S (OpenTX 2.3.11) when calibrating the radio in RF 8.

Using only 3 position switches or sliders - calibration is correct.

Using a 2 position switch on either of these channels - calibration is wrong.

I registered an account here just to say THANK YOU. I've flown in RF8 for years using various OpenTX / EdgeTX USB controllers and it has always worked just fine. Last night, I plug in my new Radiomaster Boxer and redid the calibration because the switches are all different and then all the sticks are "centered" at 65%. I tried different profiles, deleting the windows device, recalibrating in windows and RF, but RealFlight kept giving me 65% centers. I'm a developer who has actually worked on the USB HID Joystick code in both OpenTX and EdgeTX, so I'm not dummy when it comes to this stuff, and every other sim I used had no issue with the joystick. Even my old Q X7 (still on OpenTX 2.3.11) and TX16S showed up as 65% centers and those were the controllers I'd been using to fly in RF8 before!

I never would have thought that it was because I had a 2 pos switch on one of the channels. How could that be anything? But it was! I just set all my CH5-8 to SB, recalibrated, and I am able to fly again on every radio. Thank you so much to everyone in this thread for working to figure this out.
 
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